Cafeteria style, take-out, catering. Serves beer. Brisket plate $6.50. Opens 11A.M. Closes 9 Ph. Sunday through Thursday and 10 PM. Friday and Saturday.

Accepts credit cards. Come hungry 'cause Willy Ray's may be the best 'cue in Texas. Get set for some lip-smackin' home- made sausage~arguably the best ever made. I bestowed a 10 on the sausage.

Of course, this whole thing started with my testing brisket. The brisket fell apart when I touched the meat with my fork.

The aroma awakened my senses. The brisket melted in my mouth. That's grand championship brisket. I gave it a 10. What's going on here? Two tens? Folks who like their ribs on the sweet side will give the ribs a 10. They were tender but had a little too much fat. I gave the ribs an 8. The ham got a 10 and the turkey a 6 (slightly on the dry side and lacking flavor).

Side dishes change daily, but I'm told by others that the carrot souffle' is always there. I don't rate side dishes, but this deserved a rave. I think the souffle' had a gingersnap topping. I gave it an 11. The boiled cabbage also deserved a rave. It had a dash of cilantro.

I started to give Willy Ray's an all around rating of 9 until I saw Stewart's Sodas in an ice barrel. Willy Ray's is a first-class act.

The decor is definitely saloon style. A large crystal chandelier and numerous ceiling fans hang from a pressed metal ceiling over a bare concrete floor. A classic longhorn head oversees eleven booths, fourteen tables, and many smiles.

Owner Mike Dougay says he slow cooks the meat up to sixteen hours using only wood. I checked out back and found oak and hickory.

Willy Ray's is the real thing, and it's Bee's (my wife's) favorite place.